Radiator Flush

Overview

Coolant (antifreeze) starts out doing two jobs — preventing freezing in winter and stopping corrosion inside your engine all year round. Over time, the corrosion inhibitors get used up, and once they're gone the coolant starts attacking the cooling system from inside. Aluminium engine parts are particularly vulnerable to this, and replacing a corroded radiator or water pump costs a lot more than a flush.

We drain the old coolant, run a cleaner through the system, refill with the correct coolant type for your make (long-life IAT, OAT, HOAT or G-series — and they don't mix), and properly bleed the system so there are no air pockets that cause overheating later.

What we cover

• Full cooling system drain and flush
• Correct manufacturer-spec coolant refill
• Cooling system pressure test for leaks
• Radiator, water pump and thermostat condition check
• Hose and clamp inspection — replaced where needed
• Heater core flush where temperature reads weak inside the cabin
• Proper system bleed to remove air pockets

Cooling system needs attention if…

• Coolant looks rusty, brown or murky in the expansion tank
• Temperature gauge running higher than usual
• Overheating warning light or message
• Sweet smell from the engine bay (coolant leak)
• Heater inside the cabin doesn't get properly hot
• It's been more than 5 years since the last service

Our approach

We confirm the coolant type your vehicle uses, drain and flush the system, refill with the correct fluid, and bleed properly. We also pressure-test for any leaks while we have the system open.

Why us, here in Kapiti

We never mix coolant types or use a "universal" coolant. Each manufacturer has a reason for specifying what they do — getting it right means your radiator and water pump are still healthy in 10 years' time.